Few people are aware of this, but olive oil makers value the taste of their oil just as much as winemakers value the flavour of their wine. Similarly to wine, olive oil also has its own sommeliers.
We can taste oil the same way we taste wine… every time with renewed interest.
Olive oil first needs to be appreciated through the nose. To do so, you can pour a little bit of oil in a small glass. You will be able to better see its colour, more or less yellow or green, depending on how mature the olives were when they were harvested – this, however, does not impact its quality. Put the glass in the palm of your hand and cover it with the other hand to gently heat up the oil, while shifting the glass in a circular motion. Then, strongly inhale its scent, with one nostril first, then with the other. You will be able to discover notes of fruits, ripe or green, or even dried, as well as notes of fresh grass and olives of varying maturity. As you try to identify each smell, think about all the different fruits and herbs that you know. Keep in mind that an olive is a fruit. Then, think about whether the fruity notes are light, medium or more intense.
You can then start the tasting, by taking a small sip of the olive oil. Leave it on your tongue for a few minutes, then slowly inhale through your teeth. Exhale through your nose and close your eyes. With this retro-nasal tasting, you will be able to recover the scents that you initially perceived. On the tip of your tongue, you will feel the smoothness of the oil, while the bitterness will remain at the back, with notes of artichoke, thistle, or chicory. Contrary to what one might think, bitterness is an important feature of olive oil, as it helps shape its character.
If you are only tasting one olive oil, you can swallow it, but if not, you will need to spit it out and rinse your mouth with water, or by eating a slice of apple. Through the throat, you will be able to gage its warmth and spiciness. Along with the bitterness, this spicy undertone will help give the oil its characteristics. The back of your throat might tickle, or even make you want to cough. It is normal for olive oils that are consumed pure – we should remember that the goal of a good olive oil is to elevate and deepen the flavours of your meals. During this step, you can also try to assess whether the spicy undertones are subtle, medium or intense.
The tasting of olive oil, just like wine, goes through the nose, the tongue, the nasal cavities, and then the throat. Fruity, bitter and spicy notes are typical characteristics of extra-virgin olive oil.
Great Tuscan olive oils are characterised by their balance between fruity, bitter and spicy tones. Depending on the years, this balance will be more or less intense, but will always remain harmonious.
Through this tasting method, you will also be able to tell low-quality olive oils apart from great ones. With the former, you might find a fatty taste, some sour undertones, a vague tapenade smell, or even notes of wet dirt and mould. These defects are linked to poor harvesting, storing, or extraction conditions.